Manufacturing handmade jewelry using lost wax casting

Wax model of a custom championship ring by Payne's Custom Jewelry

The next step in the custom jewelry process is carving the wax model. Rings start out as wax tubes and pendants begin as wax sheets or blocks. Saws, files, and specialized carving tools are used to cut away the wax and sculpt the design.

Measurements are taken and the design is first scratched in the surface of the wax model. As in most sculpture the material that is not needed is removed. Wax can also be added to the design using a special tool. Once the design is carved sprues, or wax wires, are added which will be attached to a flexible rubber base. The wax is weighed and multiplied by a factor to see how much gold or sterling silver will be needed to make a complete cast.

Wax model of a handmade heart shaped pendant by Payne's Custom Jewelry

Wax model of a custom pendant by Tony Payne

Hand carved wax model of a custom pendant by Payne's Custom Jewelry

Injected wax model of a custom pendant on the rubber base

The Rubber Base and Metal Flask

The wax model is then attached to the rubber base using the wax sprue. More than one model can be attached to each base if needed. A metal flask is then put into the rubber base.

Wax model of custom ring attached to the rubber base

Investment is a white powder used in casting that is mixed with water. The investment is mixed using exact proportions, stirred and then poured into the metal flask. This material is semi-liquid when first mixed and it engulfs the wax model and sprues. It is then left for an hour to harden. The wax model and sprues are encased inside the hardened investment.

Wax model of ring with rubber base and metal flask

Pouring molten gold with a vacuum assist using an electromelt furnace

The Wax Burnout

The rubber base is removed and the flask containing the wax is placed in a burnout oven. This burnout process takes about six to twelve hours to complete and reaches a maximum temperature of 1350 degrees Fahrenheit. The wax model is destroyed by this extreme heat. The flask is taken out of the oven and molten gold or sterling silver is immediately poured into the investment where the wax model once was. The sprues now act as channels for the molten gold. The metal then cools and hardens.

Jewelry after casting by Payne's Custom Jewelry

The next two pictures are of handmade jewelry after it is removed from the investment but before any finishing has been done. The jewelry is pickled overnight in a mild acid. The metal is cleaned thoroughly and the finishing works begins.

Cast custom made ring before any finishing has been done

Finishing - Saw, File, Sand and Polish

The sprues are sawed off and the metal design is smoothed with files and then sanded. The piece is polished and given any finishes that are needed such as texturing or antiquing. Any gemstones are then set in the handmade ring, pin or pendant. This completes the ancient custom jewelry making process know as lost wax casting. The results is a finished handcrafted ring or pendant that will always have special meaning to the person that wears it.

Handmade ring being finished by Payne's Custom Jewelry

Payne's Custom Jewelry manufactures unique handmade jewelry that you design. Your custom made jewelry can be created using yellow or white gold, sterling silver or platinum. The jewelry design can include any gemstones of your choice. All the custom jewelry images on this site are examples of their workmanship.

The price for your handcrafted jewelry depends on the complexity of the design, what metal is used and whether gemstones are included in the design. The labor charge to carve, cast and finish a simple handmade ring starts at $250. The cost for labor of a simple custom made pendant begins at $150. The labor charge for a championship or class ring with lettering or a design on the top and both sides begins at $1,200.

The price of the precious metal will depend on it's type, the weight of the finished piece and current market conditions. Gemstones can be provided and included in your unique custom jewelry. Natural or synthetic gemstones can be used.

Email jewelry manufacturer and designer Tony Payne at tony@paynesjewelry.com with your custom jewelry ideas and he will give you a free price quote based on your individual jewelry needs.